Monday, April 20, 2009

Reflections of the Hainanese 海南移住民の面影


21 April 2009 (Tuesday): We're right into the end of the first quarter of the year. I can't help gasping; I am constantly aware that I am 'wasting' time.
This January, before my free-stay voucher at Fairmont Hotel (Singapore)(the former Raffles The Plaza) expired, I was determined to 'waste some time'. I hopped onto a cab, hoping to reach there asap, but instead frittered away precious hours waiting for the cars in front of the taxi to clear.

The taxi crawled from the end of a bumper to another during the evening peak hour but there seemed to be a stagnant pool of vehicles right around the Istana (presidential home). Then a few floats were sighted and the driver exclaimed,"Oh! It's the Chingay Parade rehearsal." Christmas was just over, and the Lunar New Year street show was coming. Raffles Hotel, however,was still beautifully adorned with the festive wreaths.

After clicking about $30 dollars on the meter, I hopped out of the cab in relief. A very late check-in, though. The front personnel made it pleasant by offering smiles and towels. Over the phone the other day, the manager had promised a good room this time (the last one being a disappointment). So I was anticipating.

When I swung open the room door, it was great! I took pictures of the branded toiletries, the entrance, etc. Then I headed for that turkey dinner at Swisshotel The Stamford (see previous entry) - my hunger pangs were felt a long time ago.

Although the dinner was such a characterless affair, our breakfast the next morning went a little beyond expectation. A. and I strolled along the streets that were once arteries of the Hainanese enclave. The Purvis Street is still well-known for its Hainanese chicken rice. The preferred chicken rice for me is found in Bukit Merah housing estate, though. (See below)

We reminisced our previous visits to this part of Singapore. I am not that old to know how it was really like here in the past, but tried to recall what I have read in an article. I must say, this is one of my favorite spots (minus Middle Road).( See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Middle_Road,_Singapore).

The buildings here, I am sure, are more accessible now to the public than before. Several Chinese native-place associations can still be spotted. The 'soul' of the past, some lament, is gone. What has replaced it is a new spirit, I thought. It's been transformed into something rather vogue et nouveau.

The tasteful renovation must surely have increased the appreciation for this place as a public area.

I was about to sweat in the humidity after some minutes of walking. It was time anyway to have some hot local coffee and something 'Hainanese' to go along with it at the Hainanese coffee shop. The building where the shop is found must be proximating a century in age by now. It has been given a cleaner interior, which I have no complaints about.

Curious to know how early Hainanese bread looked like - the bread my Hainanese friend raved about- I ordered a kaya (coconut jam) toast set for A. It turned out to be soft sweet bread (not A's kind of bread), but it was an experience for him. It was crispy on the outside, and the kaya is authentic stuff:

I had a local combo of vermicelli and soy protein for myself-something which A. never eats in the morning. This simple fare tasted better than our buffet dinner last night at the five-star Swiss Cafe!

This was very light; not oily at all, as one might have expected from fried dishes. I would not mind going back there again for this.

As we were tucking in our breakfast, we admired the pillars and lamps. Yeah, nothing was taken for granted, the cool morning air included.